Erev Yom Kippur in Jerusalem

In Israel the solemnity of Yom Kippur is almost universally felt. Many who visit Israel at this time are struck by the special atmosphere that envelops the country. The transition on the eve of Yom Kippur from routine to ritual is a drama in itself and for those who have yet to experience a Yom Kippur in Israel following is a step-by-step description of the drama as it unfolds in the city of Jerusalem.

Sunday
2:00 a.m.: Summer time in Israel officially ends. In 2005 following many years of debate, it was decided that in order to ensure that the Yom Kippur fast would terminate “earlier”, daylight saving time would end at 2 a.m. on the Sunday proceeding Yom Kippur.

Tuesday
11:26 p.m. (midnight according to the Hebrew calendar)
The Kotel: In Temple times, the Kotel (Western Wall) was the focus of drama as the Kohen Gadol (High Priest) entered the Holy of Holies on Yom Kippur. Tonight tens of thousands have gathered for the last night of selichot (Penitential prayers).

Wednesday
4.24 a.m. (dawn)
Rabbi Yochanan Ben Zakai Sephardic Synagogue, Old City of Jerusalem: The selichot service at this famed Sephardic synagogue marks the end of selichot for the Sephardim who commenced their selichot on the 1st of Elul, when according to tradition Moses ascended Mt. Sinai to receive the second set of Tablets. The precincts of this small, magnificent synagogue are packed with standing room only. The traditional melodious Sephardic tunes that characterize the selichot service are heard through large parts of the Jewish Quarter of the Old City.

6:00 a.m
Mikvah Yad Tamar, Metudellah Street, Jerusalem: A group of men enter the mikvah as they prepare to pre-empt the crowds for this pre-Yom Kippur custom. In Israel over one million men will enter the mikvah today causing congestion at all mikvaot throughout the country.

7:07 a.m.
Reshet Bet and Galei Tzhal radio channels (with a combined total of about 2 million listeners) commence their current affairs morning programs. Interviews and reports focus on the following three areas: the aftermath of The Yom Kippur War, Repentance and asking forgiveness as social and psychological phenomena and tips for an easy fast.

8:00 a.m.
Kikar Shabbat (central intersection in the ultra-Orthodox suburb of Geulah, Jerusalem): Hundreds of chickens are brought into the streets and sold to passersby for the traditional Kapparot custom. These chickens are later slaughtered in designated areas.

9:00 a.m.
Mount of Olives Jewish Cemetery: My brother and I visit my mother’s grave. Scores of cars jam the tiny area below the former Intercontinental Hotel. Abed the local caretaker, who worked in the cemetery pre-1948 and helped reconstruct it in 1967, greets us together with hundreds of others. He scolds an American tourist who has not visited the grave of his father for 15 years. At the bottom of the hill there are scores of visitors at Menachem Begin’s grave.

10:00 a.m.
DVD store Shamai Street, downtown Jerusalem: The store is packed with teenagers who are taking out the latest titles on loan. These kids are keen to pass the fast by watching the latest movies.

10.30 a.m.
Bicycle store, Agron Street: Scores of youngsters wait eagerly to have their bicycles repaired. With the streets barren of cars on Yom Kippur, the day will be conducive for cycling.

11:00 a.m.
Mount Herzl Cemetery: The official memorial ceremony for those who were killed in the Yom Kippur War commences. The Chief of Staff and Minister of Defense participate in the ceremony. Ruth, a cousin lights a memorial candle at the graveside of her husband who was killed in Port Said having been there as part of his reserve duty.

12:00 noon
HaPoalim Bank – Zion Square: Bank closes its doors. The security guard wishes those who exit a Hatimah Tovah.

1:00 p.m.
Mahaneh Yehudah Market, Jerusalem: Prices plummet as the last groups of shoppers make their purchasers. Vendors are keen to literally give away their produce to the needy as Yom Kippur approaches.

1.30 p.m.
City area: All stores have closed

2.00 p.m.
Community Centre Kiryat Menachem: The gym hall is converted into a temporary “synagogue”. Many who live in the area and do not feel comfortable in a traditional synagogue have been invited to participate in a “friendly” service. For these people, this is their once a year participation in a traditional service.

2.30 p.m.
Emek Refaim Street: All coffee shops and restaurants are closed. There are no buses to be seen. All public transport has ceased.

3.30 p.m.
The Katamonim: The Cohen family sits down to the pre-fast meal. There are probably 550,000 people who are sitting down to the pre-fast meal. The Cohen’s feel fortunate they are able to sit together as a family and enjoy this wholesome meal despite their dire financial situation. Thanks to Meir Panim who addresses their needs on a daily basis they are able to function as a family. Not a person is to be found in the streets; they are all almost completely desolate of pedestrians and cars.

4.00 p.m.
Ben Gurion Airport: The airport shuts down. This international gateway to all Israeli cities will remain closed until 6 p.m. on Thursday evening.

4.00 p.m.
All official radio stations shut down

4.10 p.m.
The Great Synagogue, King George Street: Security forces cordon off the area in anticipation of President Shimon Peres’ participation in the Kol Nidrei prayer service.

4.46 p.m.
The sounds of an air raid siren herald in the approaching Yom Kippur. Close to 300 000 women light the Yom Kippur candles.

4.51 p.m.
The fast commences. Thousands of people pour into the streets on their way to synagogue and the Kotel.

Yom Kippur has commenced!

Gmar Hatimah Tovah (May your final sealing (in the Book of Life) be good)